Overview

Overlooking the Parque Leoncio Vidal, the Museo de Artes Decorativas occupies a magnificent colonial house built around 1740. Transformed over the centuries, it was restored in 1820 and again in 1980. The furniture exhibited here comes from several homes in Santa Clara and is displayed in chronological order, with a series of rooms presenting various decorative art ensembles from the 17th century up to the 20th century. In keeping with baroque tradition, the rooms are very heavily decorated. This custom goes back to the inferiority complex felt by members of the Cuban aristocracy towards Spain. Perhaps overcompensating, they filled their rooms and walls to prove their wealth. The museum has some extraordinary items, including an armoire built entirely without nails and a washbasin from the days when there was no running water.

The memory of Che Guevara permeates the town of Santa Clara. Located a little over 2 kilometres (1.25 miles) west of Parque Leoncio Vidal, the Plaza de la Revolución is dedicated to the famous Argentine guerrilla who fought fiercely alongside Fidel Castro to overthrow Batista in the late 1950s. A gigantic statue of Che Guevara dominates this plaza, the site of major political and cultural rallies in Santa Clara. Built in 1988 to commemorate the Guevara-led Battle of Santa Clara, this 7-metre high bronze (22.9-ft) sculpture is the work of Cuban artist Delana; the gigantic stone pedestal upon which it rests is more than 10 metres (32.8 ft) high.

Below this monument, anyone interested in this almost mythical Argentine revolutionary will not want to miss the Museo Memorial Nacional Comandante Ernesto Che Guevara. Inaugurated on December 28, 1988, it traces Che's life from his childhood up to his death, including his trips through Latin America, his stay in Mexico during which he met an exiled Fidel Castro, the landing of the Granma on the coast of Cuba, and his revolutionary experience in the Sierra Maestra. The museum is well documented, and displays a number of Che's personal items, including his uniforms, hand-written letters as well as many photos.

The door that faces the entrance to the museum leads to the Mausoleo del Che, where lie the remains of Che and the 13 Cubans who were killed with him in Bolivia. An eternal flame shines in this solemn and touching shrine.

Following Che Guevara's footsteps in Santa Clara also requires a visit to the Monumento del Descarrilamiento, Acción y Toma del Tren Blindado, which recounts the decisive battle led by Che Guevara against an armoured train carrying Batista's forces on December 28, 1958. The reinforcements aboard this train were sent by Batista to help his army finish off the rebels in the centre of the country. After leaving Havana, the train arrived in Santa Clara on December 24. Che arrived on December 28 and settled in at the University of Santa Clara, where he made clandestine requests for equipment with which he could derail the train. He managed to obtain a bulldozer and, during the night, he breached the railway line leading to Havana. The ensuing attack from atop a hill prompted the train's crew members to back up and attempt to return to Havana... and the rest is history. Four of the train's 22 cars can be viewed at the monument.

Going Out

The Museo de Artes Decorativas also offers classical music concerts. The museum is recognized as Santa Clara's most important centre for classical music.

The Casa de la Cultura Juan Marineyo is Santa Clara's community cultural centre. At the entrance, a small art gallery exhibits works by contemporary artists from the region. This beautiful house, built in 1927, is the site of many cultural activities. Shows and concerts are held here regularly.

Shopping is a rare diversion in this region of the country, but you can still head to Calle Independencia, open only to pedestrians starting at Calle Maceo. Most of the shops are intended for local residents, including Santa Clara's biggest bookshop.

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